Make
Build Your Own Wooden Stacking Blocks Set
If we had to pick one toy every workshop owner should build, this is it. A set of solid wooden stacking blocks. No joinery, no hardware, no finishing tricks — just cut, sand, finish. You'll end up with the kind of heirloom block set that gets passed from sibling to sibling and still looks better at age seven than the day it was made. Chris built his current set in 2019 and his daughter is still building cities with them.
This is also the perfect first build to teach a kid woodworking with. Once your child is four or five, the cutting becomes their job (with you on the saw), the sanding becomes a family afternoon, and the "these are MY blocks" pride sticks for years.
Tools & materials
Links go to Amazon — we earn a small commission at no cost to you.
Cut list
Board: 1×2 hardwood (38mm × 38mm finished) — 1.8m + 1×4 hardwood (89mm × 19mm) — 600mm
| Piece | Qty | W × H × T (mm) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small cubes | 8 | 38 × 38 × 38 | Square crosscut |
| Short rectangles | 6 | 76 × 38 × 38 | |
| Long rectangles | 4 | 114 × 38 × 38 | |
| Planks | 4 | 200 × 38 × 19 | |
| Half-cube triangles | 4 | 38 × 38 × 38 | Cut diagonally on bandsaw or with hand saw |
| Arches | 2 | 100 × 50 × 19 | Optional — cut curve with jigsaw |
How to build them
📐Plan your cut sequence10 min
Before you cut anything, lay out your boards and pencil-mark every cut. Cubes first, then rectangles in order of length. Cutting long-to-short avoids waste. If you don't have access to a planer, check that your boards are actually square — many hardware-store "1×2s" are slightly under nominal. That's fine, just be consistent.
🪚Make the cubes and rectangles30 min
Starting with the long 1×2 board, crosscut all the cubes first (38mm intervals), then the short rectangles (76mm), then long rectangles (114mm). Use a stop block on your mitre saw fence if possible — it's much faster and more consistent than measuring each cut. Aim for square ends; a cube with a 2-degree angle on it won't stack.
📏Cut the planks10 min
From your 1×4 board, crosscut four 200mm lengths. These are your "bridge" blocks — the same width as the cubes (38mm) on the narrow edge, but longer and thinner.
🔺Cut the triangles and arches (optional)20 min
Take four of your cubes and cut each one diagonally corner-to-corner. A bandsaw makes this easy; a hand saw with a mitre box works too. For the arches, cut two 100×50×19 blanks, then mark a half-circle on each one (a coin works as a template) and cut the curve with a jigsaw. Sand the curve smooth — this is the prettiest piece in the set and worth the effort.
✨Break every edge60 min
This is the longest step and the one that separates a good block set from a great one. Every edge on every block needs to be eased — not rounded over with a router, just softened so there are no sharp 90-degree corners. Start with 80 grit on your power sander, hit every face flat, then run a sanding block along every edge. Move to 120, then 220, then 320 if you want a properly silky finish. Block sets get mouthed; smooth edges matter.
🪞Apply the beeswax finish30 min + drying
Beeswax is the finish we use on every toy build. Apply a thin coat with a clean rag, rub it in with the grain, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then buff hard with a clean rag. Repeat for a second coat after a few hours if you want a deeper sheen. The blocks should feel waxy-smooth, not greasy. If they're still tacky after 24 hours, you over-applied — buff again with a dry rag.
Why these proportions
The block sizes above aren't arbitrary. They follow the standard unit block proportions used in early-childhood education for decades: every shape is a multiple or fraction of the basic 38mm cube. Two cubes side-by-side equal one short rectangle. Two short rectangles equal one long rectangle. This proportionality is what lets kids build real architectural structures — towers that balance, walls that align, arches that span. Random-sized blocks don't do this.
Frequently asked questions
How many blocks do I need to build?
The cut list above makes a starter set of around 28 blocks. That's plenty for a toddler. For an older child (5+), aim for 50-60 — double the cubes and rectangles. We have a 50-block set in active rotation in our test household for nearly two years; it's the most-used toy on the shelf.
Can I use pine?
You can, but pine is soft and dents under heavy use. A pine set will look distressed within a year. Maple or beech ages much better and feels right in toddler hands. Rubberwood is the budget alternative if maple is hard to find — sustainable and surprisingly dense.
Painted or natural?
For under-three kids, painted blocks (red, blue, yellow on a few accent pieces) are more inviting. Past three, kids project whatever colour they want onto a natural block. Our preference: natural with maybe four accent pieces in primary colours.
How long does the finish last?
Beeswax needs renewing maybe once a year on a heavily-used set. Just buff a fresh coat over the top — the surface gets richer with each renewal. After ten years of use, our test set looks better than the day it was made.
Next in the MAKE series: Build your own wooden push car · Build a personalised name puzzle.
